Looks like I might be retiring my 2007 Tundra EDIT: $7K for all needed repairs on the Tundra. Under 100k miles. Not all repairs must be done immediately, but all probably within a year.
I’m just starting the search. I want used, probably certified, good fuel economy, all weather handling ability, and decent cargo space. I like a lot of room in the cabin (I’ve been using Suburu station wagons recently, and they are very cramped). I also will not tolerate digital surveillance, or subscription-only access to physically installed hardware. And I too, come from the Tom Paris school of wanting physical buttons dials and switches for everything (the displays in the suburus are blinding at night, even the speedometer! (and I do NOT need to know my fuel economy from second to second, Suburu - How could you possibly thing flashing that in my face with a bright light is useful in any way?!)))
LOL, I have been driving Outbacks for the last 11+ years, and I love ‘em. For brightness, the scroller to the left of the steering wheel will reduce brightness on both the screen and gauges, and the little thumb buttons will shift away from the real time fuel economy, at least on the drivers’ console. I can’t help you with the cabin, but I don’t mind it, and the cargo volume with the back seats down is generally better than the Forresters. I will say that the Outbacks already have so-so fuel economy; I’ll be surprised if anything significantly roomier does much better.
For buttons, Hyundai and Nissan seem to be fighting a rear-guard action to keep them around. Get the Santa Cruz! Get a “Ute”!!! Do it!
Adding on to the Subaru info, on the new models the fuel economy is a much smaller white bar at the very top and can be changed to something else such as the much more useful “miles to empty”.
Yes the giant touch panel thing sucks, but at least the important stuff like wipers and lights are still physical. Climate control UI is rough, but not the worst I’ve seen. The climate auto mode does a good job. Generally I only have to set the temp which is a physical up/down button and the car will adjust vents and fan speed accordingly (defrost buttons are physical too).
But seriously, I haven’t seen an active car community. !cars@lemmy.world has the most users but is pretty quiet.
I have owned multiple used cars over the years and could probably give some general advice, depending on whether you are asking about specific models or the process itself.
I’m just starting the search. I want used, probably certified, good fuel economy, all weather handling ability, and decent cargo space. I like a lot of room in the cabin (I’ve been using Suburu station wagons recently, and they are very cramped). I also will not tolerate digital surveillance, or subscription-only access to physically installed hardware. And I too, come from the Tom Paris school of wanting physical buttons dials and switches for everything (the displays in the suburus are blinding at night, even the speedometer! (and I do NOT need to know my fuel economy from second to second, Suburu - How could you possibly thing flashing that in my face with a bright light is useful in any way?!)))
Please buy a “new to you” car. Everyone drives a used car. ;)
How does the second statement relate to the first? Lots of people drive new cars
Once you drive it, it’s no longer a new car.
Sure, now, and then. Past, present. Time it’s a flat circle.
A “new car” can be commonly / casually defined as:
- You are the first owner.
- It is the current, or nearly current year model.
Source: my dog
Try selling it back to a dealer, you aren’t getting a new car price.
Source: Reality.
Here’s the estimate. I asked about selling, and he offered me a grand, because there’s some dents on the drivers side rear door and bed.
A fucking thousand American dollars for an 07 Tundra with less than a 100k. L o fucking L.
These dudes should at least lube you up and get you drunk first before they absolutely fuck the shit out of you.
What repairs are needed on a Toyota with under 100k miles and who is performing the work? This sounds like a dealership service department trying to push you into buying a new car. I just rolled over 200k on my Camry and haven’t needed any repairs outside of normal maintenance with fluid changes, brakes, and the like.
Some of those seem like insane repairs. Leaf spring replacement? Steering rack replacement? Do you live in the rust belt by chance? If not, I don’t see why these would need any work unless they’ve been physically damaged in a crash or something.
Is your engine a 4.7L V8? If not, you have a timing chain that shouldn’t ever need to be replaced. The 4.7L was the only engine that had a timing belt on the Tundra in 2007, which do need to be replaced since they can easily wear out.
A lot of the other parts seem like reasonable items to repair, but their prices are crazy high.
$15 per spark plug plus labor? I just did my spark plugs and think I paid $5 each for OEM quality iridium plugs from RockAuto.
Front struts only need to be replaced if you notice that they’re leaking.
An alignment is needed only if replacing suspension components or you notice uneven tire wear or the vehicle pulling to the left/right.
Exhaust - $700 to clamp (!) a small section of pipe seems incredibly steep
Wheel bearing and struts: prices for these parts are about double what you can buy OEM quality parts for on your own.
Could I just take this to a muffler shop? I have to profess ignorance. I have never had an exhaust problem before.
Yeah you can absolutely just take it there to fix the exhaust issue. They’re more setup for that type of work so it’ll probably be cheaper too.
It’s the 4.7L V8. I lived in Anchorage for 3 years, he said the drivers side leaf spring was broken, and that if the saw it, it would not pass inspection, he said the strut was extremely corroded and would start to leak but who knows when, he was adamant that aftermarket plugs would be an utter disaster, he said the alignment would be not required, but highly recommended after replacing the leaf springs, The exhaust repair was gonna require a couple welds which I can’t do. I don’t know how to do that. Also, I don’t have a lift so some of this stuff is tough for me but I hear what you’re saying and I’m 100% with you.
If your underbody is all rusty then you very well may need all this stuff done, which is super unfortunate as these vehicles are otherwise some of the most reliable out there.
If you can take care of some of this on your own, you can find high quality OE or OE equivalent parts on RockAuto alongside the cheap stuff you’d find at Autozone (what they’re referring to). It’s nice as they break stuff out into “cheap” (economy) and “quality” (daily driver/premium) parts and all the prices are still excellent. I’ve bought numerous Motorcraft and Toyota branded parts for our vehicles from them.
I appreciate the recommendation! (I am assuming you are not receiving kickbacks 😂 )
No I wish with how often I buy from them. I just love to share good valued things with others since we’re typically inundated with companies trying to fleece us from all directions.
